Flywheel + Ignition Conversion Kit fits Polaris Ranger 500 Series 10 4x4 2003
ATV / UTV / SXS. Flywheel + Ignition Conversion Kit for Polaris Ranger 500 Series 10 4x4 2003. Brand new kit Stator + Flywheel + Puller + AC to DC ignition conversion. The Quality exceeds the OEM equipment. All item pictures are accurate, if in doubt do not hesitate and compare our item to your original part. Two flywheels exist for Polaris 500cc models. This flywheel has the code FF97 stamped on its back. In doubt, please refer to specifications. Bring it back to life. Introducing a brand new ACE Ignition System for your Polaris. Revive your old trusted Polaris and fix it for good with this ignition system that includes. AC to DC conversion system. Easier diagnosis if a new problem arises.
Much less expensive than replacing multiple OEM components. Quick and easy installation with no need to open the engine. The system stabilizes the ignition, especially at low speed. Converts the unreliable AC powered ignition to a more modern and reliable DC powered system.
Heavy-duty flywheel rotor for Polaris ATVs is a well-priced solution to problems with the OEM flywheel, and an excellent alternative to all the mechanical troubles you can encounter with a repair. Polaris Ranger 500 Series 10 4x4 -- 2003.
AC to DC Ignition conversion kit. Watch our AC to CD Ignition conversion kit installation video. Download our complete installation instruction (PDF 15Mo).
Removing a Powersport Vehicle's Flywheel / Rotor. Flywheel Pullers are very versatile engine service tools and are a must in every toolbox. Flywheel pullers are very simple to use, having only an outer body to hold the flywheel and a screw to push on the crankshaft. Some are even simpler, having only a bolt to thread into the flywheel.
A taper holds the flywheel or rotor and the crankshaft together. The flywheel is secured to the shaft by applying torque to the fixing bolt. An Important Component to use.
Many flywheel or rotor puller tools will include a small cap. This is a crankshaft thread protector, and should always be used if it is included with the puller.
You slip this cap onto the end of the inner piece of the puller which presses against the tip of the crankshaft. This keeps the fine threads from being stripped or damaged while removing the flywheel or rotor. Most of the time, removing a flywheel or rotor is painless. But sometimes corrosion, over-torqueing the fixing bolt, or heat-cycling can give you a hard time removing the flywheel. We too often see mechanics use a larger breaker bar or air impact tools to ease the flywheel off. These two techniques will damage the flywheel, the flywheel puller, or the crank. Avoid using them if you want to keep it cheap. Tips to break a stuck flywheel loose. How do you know if it's stuck? You simply have to set your torque wrench to 50 ft-lbs and try to ease the flywheel off. If the flywheel is not stuck, you should be able to remove it with even less torque than this. If it is stuck, don't use more torque or you might break your wrench. If 50 ft-lbs does not do the trick, go fetch something like a 12 or 16 oz ball peen hammer. Hit the end of the flywheel puller with a medium blow. Many times, the shock you create will successfully remove your flywheel. Be prepared to catch the flywheel since the shock of the hammer can make the flywheel jump off.This item can be shipped to United States.
- Brand: RMSTATOR
- Manufacturer Part Number: RMS900-102833--U--P
- Warranty: 2 Year
- Surface Finish: Metal